20130510

A wonderful place, Okinawa 6 :   people's daily life


 fishermen

Its image is charming and strange.
Since I traveled Okinawa for the first time in 20 years and am reading the history of Okinawa, I became to understand little it.
This time, I would like to tell you the surprise obtained in contact with people of Okinawa.


中世において密貿易の琉球は現在の軍事基地沖縄になったが、魅惑的ではあるが、えたいの知れない島とも映る。
しかし、沖縄を20年ぶりに旅行し、沖縄史を読み返す内に見えて来たものがあります。
今回は、沖縄の人々に接して得た驚きを皆さんに伝えたいと思います。


Fishing port

< Fishing port >

At seven o’clock in morning, although I walked a fishing port, there were only big warehouses in the wharf, and few people.
On several boats that had been tied on the pier, men were preparing a diving.
There was not ambience of a fishing port.


7時頃、漁港を散策しましたが、埠頭には大きな倉庫群があるだけで人影はほとんどありません。
接岸の何隻かではダイビングの準備をしており、漁港のイメージはなかった。


cisterns of farmed sea grapes

< a situation in the warehouse >

Because I wondered, gained agreement with entering the warehouses.
When I went into one of the warehouses, in it had been filled with cisterns of farmed sea grapes (seaweed).
The delicacies have been cultivated in the rich seawater that was pumped.

不思議に思い,了解を得て倉庫の一つに入ると、一面、海ぶどうの養殖槽が並んでいた。

豊かな海水を汲み上げ、珍味の栽培を行っていたのです。



I had a conversation with fishermen in the fishing port.

I: “I heard that Okinawa has dropped out of the most long-lived prefecture. Since the meat diet increased, are you also metabolic syndrome? ”
Fisherman: “In order to maintain skin in the severe sunlight of Okinawa, pork is required.”

I: ”I came here about 20 years ago. In those days, here was grassland as far as I could see. However, many shops and hotels are currently crammed here. This area developed, didn't it?”
Fisherman: ” Although it developed, most of business or enterprises has been practiced by people of mainland, and people of Okinawa are few.

They told real intention with smiling.



漁港で漁師との会話。

私:「沖縄県は長寿の座を明け渡したそうですね。肉食が増えた為、メタボ気味ですよね。」
漁師:「沖縄のきびしい日差しの中、肌を維持するには、豚肉が必要なのだよ。」

私:「20年前、ここに来たことがあるのですが。一面、草はらだったのがショップやホテルが立ち並ぶようになり、発展しましたね。」
漁師:「発展したけれど、商売や事業のほとんどは本土からの人で沖縄の人は少ない。

彼らは笑顔で本音を語ってくれた。


houses near the fishing port 

< houses near the fishing port >

Most houses in Okinawa were made of concrete as this photo.
Last time, I had felt an uncomfortable feeling in the scenery that disregarded tradition.
After the war, in consideration of the typhoon, people imitated the lodgings of the U.S. Forces and have built the houses while paying big expenses.


沖縄の家は、この写真のようにほとんどコンクリート製でした。
前回,私はこの伝統を無視した家並みに違和感を持っていた。
戦後、人々は台風を考慮し、米軍の宿舎を真似て、高額の出費ながら建てるようになったのです。


grave

< grave >
People's most conservative senses appear in the style of grave.
This grave is the style of China.

墓には、人々の最も保守的な側面が現れます。
この墓は中国風です。


I had a conversation with a young woman.

I: “A long time ago, how was your name pronounced?”
Woman: “It has not changed from of old.”
The next day, she revealed to me.
Woman: “since I asked parents, for the first time I knew that it has changed into a reading of Japan's mainland from the dialect of Okinawa at Meiji Period.

For her, knowing it may be unhappy.
On many occasions, Okinawa has been thrown into disorder concerning whether people select independence or protection from China or Japan.
Okinawa has had an antipathy to the rule of Japan so much.


若い女性との会話。  

私:「あなたの名前を昔はどのように発音したのですか?」
女性:「昔から変わりませんよ。」
次の日、その女性が私に打ち明けました。
女性:「親に聞いたら、明治の頃に沖縄の方言から本土の読みに変えたことを知りました。」

彼女がそれを知ることは不幸かもしれません。
沖縄は幾たびも、日本に従属か独立か、はたまた中国の保護下かで、激しく内部で紛糾しました。

沖縄は、それほど日本の扱いに反感を持っていたのです。


A U.S. base, the greatest air force base in the Far East,

< A U.S. base, the greatest air force base in the Far East, red shows U.S. bases. >
Please refer to it.


What has made Okinawa?

In ancient times, Okinawa was close to Japan along many islands following on Kyushu.
Before long, when the ocean-going ship developed, Okinawa became close to huge China
Since China and Japan in eastern Asia has restricted the trade, Ryukyu has played an active part in marine trade.
The West has come to invade Asia on southern routes.
Okinawa that has been a small national land and the deficient in industry escaped large-scale invasion but wasn't able to attain independence.
Always, Okinawa was forced to accept a role of the port of call and a stopping point by China, Japan, and the West.
Okinawa also has found a way into it.
And Okinawa is an important point of military base in the Far East now.

This time, this series of Okinawa is finished.
Thank you for reading this for long.


何が沖縄を作ったのか? 

古くは、沖縄は九州から島伝いで日本に近かった。
やがて外洋船が発達すると、巨大中国が近くになった。
アジア東端の中国と日本は貿易を制限したので、琉球が海上交易を担った。
そのうち欧米が南周りでアジア各地に侵攻して来た。
国土が小さく産業に乏しい沖縄は大規模な侵略を逃れたが独立も出来なかった。
いつも中国や日本、欧米の寄港地・中継地としての役割を押し付けられ、また活路を見出して来た。
そして現在は、極東軍事の要となっている。

今回で、沖縄紀行を終わります。
連載を長らく読んでいただきありがとうございました。














20130508

A wonderful place, Okinawa  5 : history and culture



A lion dance of Okinawa


< A lion dance of Okinawa

This time, I introduce the history of Okinawa and the culture.
We can know Okinawa that played an active part in marine trade once.

Although the lion mask of the photo resembles the thing of Japan's mainland, the body is not a cloth like curtain and is the style (lion dance of the Nanjing town) of China.

今回は、沖縄の歴史と文化を見ます。
そこから、かつて海上交易で活躍した栄光が浮かびあがります。

写真の獅子頭は日本本土のものと似ていますが、胴体は幕でなく中国風(南京街の獅子舞)です。


woman dance of Ryukyu dance, Eisa, and Sanshin 


< woman dance of Ryukyu dance, Eisa, and Sanshin >

This woman dance is the bravest dance, and the brilliant kimono was made by a traditional dyeing technique (Bingata) of Okinawa.
The forceful Eisa that is danced with striking a drum was danced at Bon time of summer.
This started with the spread of Nenbutsu folk dances of Buddhism that came from Japan's mainland.
Speaking of musical instrument of Okinawa, it will be Sanshin, but the origin is stringed instrument of Fujian, China.
Because, Ryukyuold dynasty in Okinawatraded through Fujian with China.



この女踊りは最も華やかな舞で、鮮やかな着物は沖縄の染め技法(紅型)によります。
太鼓を叩きながら力強く舞うエイサーは、夏の盆に踊られます。
これは本土から来た念仏宗の広がりと共に始まった。
沖縄の楽器と言えば三線(さんしん)ですが、その起源は中国福建省の弦楽器です。
なぜなら琉球は福建省を通じて交易(朝貢)していたからです。


Shuri castle, main hall 


< Shuri castle, main hall >

This became the Ryukyu king's castle from the 15th century.
The castle and many of things in Okinawa disappeared by the Pacific War.
It is the maximum and only was rebuilt in Okinawa.
This king's palace is colored in bright vermilion, and many China styles are adopted.

これは15世紀より琉球王の居城となった。
この城と沖縄の多くが太平洋戦争で消失した。
それは沖縄で最大、唯一の再建された城です。
この王宮殿は鮮やかな朱で彩られ、中国様式が多く取り入れられている。


Shuri castle: a gate、castellated wall、a throne


< Shuri castle: a gatecastellated walla throne >

Shuri Castle has neither towers nor clay walls on the stone wall like the castle in Japan’s mainland.
It is resembled Hwaseong Fortress of Suwon in South Korea, then is the style of China.

首里城は、本土の城のように城壁の石垣の上に櫓や塀がない。
韓国の水原華城に似ており、中国風と言えます。


the remains of Nakijin Castle 


<  the remains of Nakijin Castle >

This castle (gusuku) in northern part of main Okinawa island is typical of mountain castle, and built about the 13th century.
That time was about 200 years before the age of provincial wars of Japan's mainland.


本島北部にあるこの城(グスク)は代表的な山城で、それは戦国時代よりも2百年古い13世紀頃に築城された。


an old folk house, a warehouse, a small shrine(Utaki)


< an old folk house, a warehouse, a small shrine(Utaki) > 

These are saved in a park and might been not seen actually in main Okinawa island.
The roof of red tile and white mortar have been a little in the country.
Small shrines that I saw at Daisekirin mountain was very simple.

The old culture (language, clay pot, religious faith) of Okinawa was integral with Japan.
However, from 600 years ago, Okinawa became to have relation deeply with China as an independent country.
At that time, it became a maritime state that had traded with Japan, China, and Southeast Asia.
From Edo Period, the rule of Japan in Okinawa progressed, and U.S. ruled it after World War II.
Finally, Okinawa has returned to Japan and had continued to be influenced by mighty nation.



Next time, it becomes the last. We look at people and life of Okinawa.



これらは公園に保存されているもので、沖縄本島では現実に見ることはなかった。
赤い瓦と白い漆喰の屋根は田舎に少し残ってはいた。
大石林山で見た物は、非常に簡単なものでした。

沖縄の古い文化(言語、土器、信仰)は、日本と一体でした。
しかし600年前頃より、独立国として中国と深く関わりを持つようになります。
この時期、日本と中国、東南アジアを股に掛ける海洋国家になっていった。
江戸時代以降、日本の支配が進み、戦後は米国が支配し、また日本への復帰と、大国に翻弄された。

次回は、最後になります。沖縄の生活や人々に触れます。


20130506

A wonderful place, Okinawa 4: Okinawa cuisine


in the aquarium 

< in the aquarium >
This time, I introduce some Okinawa cuisines that I have eaten at this time travel.
I enjoyed several popular tastes, delicacies, and the atmosphere.

I ate A Tako rice at the restaurant in the aquarium in Ocean Expo Park.
It was like fried rice, and a pungent condiment of salsa was effective.  
It was nice.
A good point is to have a meal while looking at the swimming big fish.


今回は、旅行で味わった沖縄料理を紹介します。
沖縄の庶民の味や珍味、さらには雰囲気を味わって来ました。

海洋博公園の水族館内のレストランでタコライスを食べた。
これは炒めご飯に似ており、サルサの辛みを効かしたもので、旨かった。
一番は、遊泳する大魚を眺めての食事でした。


Naha Makishi Public Market 

< Naha Makishi Public Market >
Here, there are all foods of Okinawa and popular tastes.
The foods of the pig stood out in the butcher.
For example, Rafute was braised an unhusked pork, Chiraga made of a skin from the head.

You can take ingredients purchased on the first floor and have them cooked for you on the second floor.
Fresh tropical fish and strange shrimps are lined up at stores.
You can enjoy the variegated Okinawa food easily in many restaurants on the second floor.
There are also many overseas tourists.

ここでは沖縄の食材、庶民の味が一同に会しています。
肉屋では、豚の食材が目についた。
例えば、豚の皮付き肉を煮たラフテー、頭部の皮を使ったチラガー。

1階で食材を買い、2階で料理してもらって食べることが出来る。
新鮮な熱帯魚や風変わりなエビが並んでいる。
2階の食堂街は手軽に多彩な沖縄料理を楽しめ、海外観光客も多い。


a bowl of rice topped with Sashimi and Umibudou(seaweeds), and Okinawa noodles

< a bowl of rice topped with Sashimi and Umibudou(seaweeds), and Okinawa noodles
 >
I have a lunch on the second floor.
The Umibudou that is not eaten usually was nice.

2階の食堂で昼食。
日頃食べることのない海ぶどうが旨かった。


Okinawa cuisines of hotel 

Okinawa cuisines of hotel 

< Okinawa cuisines of hotel >
Gurukunn (a fish of Okinawa) and balsam pear are visible to the upper photo.
The Okinawa cuisines at hotel are fairly delicious.
In fact, my favorite was the pickled balsam pear that was pungently flavored.

上の写真に沖縄の魚グルクンとゴーヤが見える。
ホテルのバイキングでの沖縄料理は結構美味しいかった。
実は一番気に入ったのは、ゴーヤのピリ辛漬けでした。


Naha, Okinawa home cooking 

< Naha, Okinawa home cooking >

Hanagasa restaurant in Naha city is famous in Okinawa home cooking.
It was being crowded with local people and overseas tourist.
All menus are set menu, and the price is cheap.
Although it was light taste, it was probably popular taste in Okinawa, and a secret of a long life.

In this way, for four days, I was contented to eat the Okinawa cuisines and the foods.

Next time, I will look at the culture and history of Okinawa.


那覇市の花笠食堂は沖縄家庭料理で有名です。
地元の人と海外観光客で賑わっていた。
総べて定食で、値段は安い。
薄味だったが、これが庶民の味、長寿の秘訣なのだろうと納得した。

こうして4日間、沖縄料理と食材をたんのうした。

次回は、沖縄の文化と歴史を見ます。

















20130504

A wonderful place, Okinawa 3: Naha and Gyokusen cave


Gyokusen cave


< Gyokusen cave >

This time, I introduce a central city Naha and a limestone cave.
Probably, the greatest pleasure of Naha is Kokusai street, and nature of south part is a limestone cave.

今回は、沖縄の中心都市那覇と鍾乳洞を紹介します。
那覇の楽しみは国際通り、南部の自然は鍾乳洞でしょう。


MAP of Okinawa


< A yellow frame is the place that I introduce this time. >


Gyokusen cave 


< Gyokusen cave >
The biggest feature in here is many icicle-like stalactites and many stalagmites that extended from the bottom around us.
It is easy to walk, and we can sightsee in it within 30 minutes on 890m in length.

Although south part in the main Okinawa island is flat ground, it consists of many limestone layers, and is a low number of rivers.
This geographical feature and the typhoon of summer had directed Okinawa to the dry-field farming of sugarcane or pineapple.

ここはつらら状の鍾乳石と下から伸びる石筍が身近に多く見られることが特徴だと思います。
ここは歩き易く、長さ890mを30分以内で観光出来ます。

この本島南部は平地が多いのですが石灰岩層が多く、河川が少ない。
この地形と夏の台風が、沖縄をサトウキビやパイナップルの畑作に向かわせた。


Naha City 


< Naha City >

I am surprised that this place has been developed much further, because I had traveled to it about 20 years ago once.
Here is a prefectural capital at the present day, and has been the center in Okinawa since a capital of Ryukyu Kingdom that has born in the 15th century.

私は20年ほど前に、一度旅行で来たことがあるが、発展していた。
ここは県庁所在地であり、15世紀に誕生した琉球王国の首都以来、沖縄の中心地です。


Kokusai street, a public market


< Kokusai street, a public market >
The greatest tourist spot is Kokusai street that is the greatest shopping quarter.
Its scale is the same or more than Grand bazar in Istanbul or Namdaemun market in Seoul.
There are restaurants, souvenir shops and clothing stores on both sides of 1.6-km driveway in Kokusai street.
Furthermore, ten long shopping streets have been continuing from it.
A public market in it is the most interesting and we can experience there the Okinawa people's life.
We can taste Ryukyu, seafood, and Chinese food at a handy price on the second floor, where there are many restaurants.
I recommended it.

When I was walking Kokusai street, I looked many tourists of Taiwan or China.
Though there is a territorial issue between both countries, I thought that Okinawa is a familiar existence by both countries.

Next time, I introduced the Food of Okinawa.


観光地として外せないのは最大の繁華街、この国際通りではないでしょうか。
ソウルの南大門市場やイスタンブールのグランドバザールに負けない規模を誇ります。
国際通りは1.6kmの車道の両側に飲食店や土産物屋、衣料店が並びます。
さらにそこから10本ほど枝別れした長い商店街が続きます。
最も興味深いのは公設市場で、沖縄庶民の暮らしを味わえます。
2階は琉球、海鮮、中華料理を手頃な値段で味わえる食堂街で、お奨めです。

国際通りを歩いていると、台湾と中国の観光客が多く、尖閣の問題がありながらも両国とは身近な存在なのだと感じた。


次回は、沖縄の食を紹介します。















20130502

A wonderful place, Okinawa 2 : The sea of coral and Ocean Expo Park


 The coral reef in Okinawa

< The coral reef in Okinawa, by a photo of a diving shop > 

This time, I introduce the sea and the park in central part of main Okinawa island.
Here is a place that people enjoy many marine leisure and life of resort hotel.


今回は、本島中部の海と公園を紹介します。
ここは海のレジャーとリゾートホテルを楽しむ所です。


a map of okinawa

< A yellow frame is the place that I introduce this time. >


Manzamo

The view from Manzamo 

< ManzamoThe view from Manzamo >

The upper surface of Manzamo is prairie of lawn grass, differs from Hendo cape slightly.
Here is a famous tourist spot, and many beaches or resort hotels dot.
From the edge of the cliff, I could see several upheaval coral, reefs and whitecaps, the sea of dark blue.
There are many coral reefs throughout the sea of Okinawa, and the diving is enjoyed.


万座毛の上面はシバ草原で最果ての辺戸岬とは趣が異なります。
ここ一帯は有名な観光スポットで、ビーチやリゾートホテルが点在しています。
眼下には隆起珊瑚、リーフと白波、紺碧の海が広がっています。
沖縄の海には、到る所に珊瑚礁があり、ダイビングが盛んです。


Ocean Expo Park, a fountain square, a hibiscus, appearance of aquarium, a huge fish tank

< Ocean Expo Park, a fountain square, a hibiscus, appearance of aquarium, a huge fish tank

When I entered central gate and went down, could see an island beyond the fountain square.
There are a huge aquarium, seaside parks, a botanical gardens, etc in this vast park.


中央ゲートを入り下ると、噴水広場の向こうに島が見えます。
ここは広大な公園で、巨大水族館、海浜公園、植物園などがあります。


A seashore in Ocean Expo Park 

< A seashore in Ocean Expo Park >

The upper photo shows Emerald beach.
A lower photo shows a small bay that is below the aquarium.
The fragments of white coral are innumerably scattered all over sands, and a marine color looks white.
Standing on the seashore, when the sun just shone from the interval of clouds, I was not able to open eyes due to dazzling.


上の写真にはエメラルドビーチが見えます。
下の写真は、水族館の下側にある小さな入り江です。
砂浜には白い珊瑚のかけらが無数に散らばり、海の色が白く見えます。
雲の合間から太陽が照ると、海岸に立っている時など、眩しくて目を開けることが出来なかった。

A resort hotel

< A resort hotel >

There are many hotels with a private beach, and people can enjoy the leisure of the seas such as diving.

この一帯はプライベートビーチを有したホテルが多くあり、ダイビングなどの海のレジャーを楽しむことが出来ます。



forest

< forest

On the other hand, if I go into neighbor hill for a while, the primeval forest has remained.
Unfortunately, we look at the topsoil spill of red clay in some places.
It shows that the grand is poverty of soil.
Today, I enjoyed an aquarium, flowerbeds, seashore, and the sunlight of Okinawa all the day.

Next time, I look at nature of south part in the main Okinawa island.


一方、裏山に少しはいると原生林が残っています。
残念なことに、所々、赤土の表土流失も見られ、地味が乏しそうです。

今日は、水族館、花壇、海岸、沖縄の日差しを満喫した1日でした。

次回は、本島の南部を紹介します。